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Mayas

Location & Contact:

2027 Magazine
New Orleans, LA 70130
504-309-3401

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Description:

The chef has built a repertoire of dishes that's as lusty as it is unusual. Freshness is a major theme: certain dishes that are more often than not a bit droopy and heavy in restaurants here are presented in light, flavorful forms. (The nacatamal is a great example of this.) Spice components are complex and exciting. Dishes come out searingly stove-hot, sometimes to the point that the waiter needs an oven mitt to carry it. Portions are too generous; two courses ought to do it for even hungry diners. There's so much stuff here that it took me a few visits to figure out what they were about.

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